Entries by Jorge Mezcua



Trucos para bucear con corrientes



Buceo con corrientes

En ocasiones no queda más remedio que agarrarnos al arrecife para que la corriente no nos lleve. Imagen de Robert Scales en Komodo

 

El buceo con corriente es uno de los mayores miedos de muchos buceadores, pero una delicia para otros. Cuando nos consultan sobre destinos de buceo o nos piden presupuesto para algún viaje el tema de la corriente suele salir habitualmente: "¿Es un sitio donde hay mucha corriente?" o "No tenemos demasiada experiencia y nos asustan un poco las corrientes fuertes" son temas que surgen cuando los clientes se plantean bucear en lugares tan famosos como Komodo, Maldivas o Galápagos, por ejemplo. De hecho, la mayoría de lugares donde podemos bucear con grandes depredadores como tiburones o donde encontramos mantas reciben corrientes con asiduidad. 

 

Las corrientes pueden ser habituales en zonas como las anteriores, en un único punto de inmersión o pueden ser fortuitas en una zona donde se supone no hay corrientes. También podemos encontrarnos diferentes tipos de corrientes como ascendentes o descendentes, en superficie o en el fondo... no está de más saber qué hacer cuando buceamos con corrientes para bucear siempre con seguridad. Aquí os explicaremos los diferentes tipos de corrientes y cómo hacerles frente para sortearlas con tranquilidad e incluso disfrutar de ellas. Lo más importante cuando estás atrapado en una corriente es mantener la mente fría, parar, pensar y actuar en consecuencia. 

Corrientes verticales

Las corrientes verticales son corrientes lo suficientemente fuertes como para empujarte hacia la superficie o hacia el fondo. Sí, como imaginas pueden ser peligrosas y desconcertantes.

 

¿Qué son las corrientes ascendentes y descendentes o verticales? Una corriente ascendente es una masa de agua que proviene de aguas más profundas e impulsa todo a su paso hacia la superficie, incluido tú. Por el contrario, una corriente descendente es aquella que comienza en aguas poco profundas y se precipita sobre el borde de una pared fluyendo hacia abajo. Estas corrientes pueden darse cuando dos corrientes en direcciones opuestas colisionan dirigiéndose hacia el fondo o hacia la superficie.

 

¿Qué hacer si nos encontramos con alguna de estas dos corrientes? Si es descendente debemos seguir estos pasos:

  • Cambia de dirección y nada paralelo a la pared. Estas corrientes se comportan como cascadas y con movernos unos metros será suficiente para evitar esa lengua de agua que nos empuja al fondo.
  • Dale aire a tu jacket. Agregando aire luchamos contra esa fuerza que nos sumerge, y a la vez debemos nadar en paralelo para evitar esa cascada que comentamos. Es posible incluso que, si es muy potente, tengamos que hinchar el chaleco por completo y descargarnos de los plomos. Una vez salgamos, rápidamente descarga aire de tu BCD y restablece tu flotabilidad e intenta llegar a la pared y para evitar un ascenso incontrolado.
  • Acompáñala. Si todo lo anterior falla, mantén la calma. Las corrientes descendentes pierden fuerza a medida que profundizan. Una vez se haya debilitado muévete a izquierda o hacia la derecha para salir de ella, y ve ascendiendo poco a poco. Al realizar el ascenso, mantente atento a tu ordenador de buceo y realiza todas las paradas de seguridad requeridas.

 

buceo en Palau

Si queremos bucear en destinos donde habitan tiburones como en Palau no tenemos más remedio que aprende a bucear con corrientes

¿y qué hacemos si la corriente es ascendente?

    • Invierte tu dirección y aletea paralelo a la pared. Igual que comentábamos con la corriente descendente, es posible escapar de la potencia de un corriente ascendente si te das cuenta antes de entrar por completo en la lengua de agua.

 

publicidad 

Cressi Evo Big Eyes

Cressi Evo

35,95 €

Suunto D4i Novo

Suunto D4i Novo

415,45 €

Aletas Mares Power Plana

Mares Power Plana

119,95 €

  • Vacía tu chaleco. Exacto, al contrario que las corrientes descendentes. Esto ayudará a frenar tu ascenso y evitará un accidente por descompresión. Si te encuentras en una corriente muy potente que te lleva directo hacia la superficie, flexiona brazos y piernas, continúa desinflando jacket, y, muy importante, no te olvides de exhalar el aire de tus pulmones.
  • Lanza tu boya de superficie. Lanza la boya en cuanto hayas salido de la columna de agua ascendente para que la tripulación del barco vaya a buscarte. Haz las paradas de seguridad que sean necesarias.

Corrientes de marea

Las corrientes de marea son masas de agua costera que viajan desde el oceáno hacia costa y viceversa gracias a la atracción de la luna, generando enormes ríos submarinos que pueden ser tanto ascendentes como descendentes. Esas mareas en el océano abierto no tienen gran impacto, pero en zonas cercanas a la costa o en canales son de gran intensidad. ¿Qué hacer para evitar encontrarnos con una de estas corrientes?

 

  • Consulta las tablas y horarios de mareas locales. Planifica tu inmersión teniendo en cuenta las corrientes y sus horarios. Si no tienes experiencia con las corrientes de marea o las zonas de inmersión de cada zona no lo dudes, contrata un centro de buceo local, ellos conocen los puntos de entrada y salida más fáciles según la marea.
  • Plantéate bucear durante una marea floja. Cuando vas a encontrar menor corriente va a ser durante la pleamar floja y la marea baja.
  • Lleva el equipo adecuado. Tanto la boya como un silbato y un reloj con el que puedas saber cuánto tiempo queda antes del cambio de marea será casi imprescindibles para tener una inmersión con seguridad. Otro punto interesante durante la planificación será fijar dos puntos de salida en caso de que uno de ellos esté recibiendo una corriente más fuerte de lo esperado.
  • Comparte tu plan de buceo. Cuéntale a alguien que no bucee con vosotros qué plan tenéis. Y si tenéis a alguien esperándoos en la orilla que conozca el plan, mucho mejor, así si os arrastra una corriente el equipo de búsqueda dará con vosotros mucho antes.

Corrientes fuertes

Cuando estamos realizando una inmersión dentro de un programa de buceo vida a bordo que no está planificada que sea a la deriva (la entrada y la salida no se realizan en el mismo punto) y vamos a entrar en el agua con corriente debemos seguir estos pasos para completarla con seguridad:

 

  • Presta atención al briefing. Si antes de entrar hay corriente en la superficie, la tripulación del barco tendrá instrucciones específicas sobre cómo entrar al agua, incluyendo bajar desde el cabo guía todos juntos. Estas líneas se arrastran desde la popa del barco y debemos mantener siempre el contacto con el cabo ya que incluso aunque lo soltemos momentáneamente nos podría llevar la corriente. 
  • Presta atención a tu entorno. En profundidad podemos averiguar y predecir de qué manera se está moviendo la corriente observando la vida marina. Los corales blandos y la vegetación se mueven en la dirección de la corriente y los peces se enfrentan a la corriente. Inicia la inmersión nadando a contracorriente para que, una vez que finalicéis la inmersión, podáis nadar más fácilmente hacia el punto de salida.
  • Desciende. Si la corriente aumenta, cambia de dirección o aparece de forma inesperada durante la inmersión, prueba a descender un poco, hacia donde la corriente pierde fuerza. En general, la corriente es más fuerte en la superficie o en aguas medias y se debilitará cuanto más nos peguemos al fondo.

 


En este vídeo podemos ver cómo el guía les pide a los buceadores que se acerquen al fondo, donde la corriente es más débil

 

  • Permaneced agrupados. Si parte del grupo se queda atrás por la corriente, esperadles en algún saliente del arrecife. El consumo de aire en situaciones de corriente aumenta y es importante que cuantos más compañeros estéis juntos mejor por si hay que compartir aire con algún buceador en problemas.
  • Aborta la inmersión si es necesario. Si la corriente es demasiado potente y no os sentís cómodos, lo mejor es abortar la inmersión. Si estás en un grupo no te sorprendas cuando el guía suspenda la inmersión si la corriente es muy potente. Una de sus misiones es no poner en riesgo la vida de ningún buceador.
  • Sigue el briefing hasta salir del agua. Sigue las instrucciones de los divemasters y guías en todo momento hasta que la inmersión termine. El briefing seguro que ha incluido información de cómo llegar al barco a salvo. Cuando hayas acabado la inmersión sigue agarrado al cabo y no lo sueltes hasta que te hayas quitado las aletas, jacket y puedas subir con seguridad a bordo. Mantén el regulador en la boca hasta que te quites el jacket.

Washing machine

Hay puntos de buceo en muchas partes del mundo conocidos como Washing Machines (lavadora en inglés) o vórtice (también se llaman vortex), inmersiones donde la corriente es potente y tiene un comportamiento irregular, te puede atrapar en un remolino que te hace girar.


Ofertas de buceo vida a bordo

Mermaid II

Komodo

Humbodlt Explorer

Galápagos

Blue Force 3

Mar Rojo

Mermaid II Barco Buceo Barco de buceo Galápagos Amelia Mar Rojo barco vida a bordo

Desde 3.000 € 2.200 €

Desde 3.340 € 2.881 €

Desde 890 € 690 €

Solitude One

Filipinas/Palau

Blue Force One

Maldivas

SMY Ondina

Indonesia

Solitude One barco de buceo Blue Force One Maldivas SMY Ondina Indonesia

Desde 2.721 € 2.439 €

Desde 1.824 € 1.621 €

Desde 3.330 € 2.990 €


Estas inmersiones pueden ser divertidas si nos gusta este tipo de buceo y sabemos cómo enfrentarnos a ellas y estamos preparados... pero si es inesperada y no se ha hablado en el briefing pueden ser muy desagradables y peligrosas.

Este ejemplo de corriente vortex que sufrió un buceador en Revillagigedo es muy revelador y a la vez angustiante. 

 

 

Este tipo de fenómenos se producen cuando las corrientes circundantes rebotan con la topografía del fondo o entre dos corrientes que van en direcciones opuestas, creando espirales de flujos de agua. Un signo revelador de una corriente de vórtice es ver una especie de serpiente de burbujas que gira sobre sí misma. Cuando te encuentras en este tipo de corrientes puedes sentir como la corriente te atrapa y te mantiene girando alrededor del vórtice, o que te expulsa de él. Son corrientes que desorientan y asustan mucho y afortunadamente son raras aunque donde son habituales. ¿Qué podemos hacer si nos quedamos atrapados en una corriente de vórtice?

 

  • Nada en horizontal. Al igual que con las corrientes ascendentes y descendentes, intenta salir de la corriente horizontalmente, la corriente siempre es más débil en los bordes.
  • Sujeta fuerte tu equipo. Estas corrientes suelen ser potentes y si te descuidas te puede quitar el regulador y la máscara. Agárralos en cuanto sientas que estás entrando en una washing machine.
  • Déjate llevar. Esta es otra opción, si no es demasiado fuerte y te sientes cómodo ¡disfruta del momento! Estas corrientes se disipan pasados unos segundos así que cuando termine el viaje recupera tu flotabilidad y finaliza la inmersión si lo consideras oportuno. Ponerte en posición fetal hará que antes o después te expulse. Lo más importante es estar tranquilo, mirar el profundímetro para no subir o bajar más de lo debido y tratar de respirar con calma. 

 


 

Otros artículos que te pueden interesar

30 pasos
para bucear seguro
20 viajes de buceo que realizar
antes de morir 
Las mejores rutas de buceo
vida a bordo de Indonesia
Buceo seguro Viajes de buceo Buceo vida a bordo indonesia


The best scuba diving regulators in 2018



Today we bring you a review of the best scuba diving regulators in 2018, with interesting releases and new versions of some of the best and most popular diving regulators of the last 10 years.  

 

This review, conducted by Mark 'Crowley' Russell, collaborator of the prestigious diving magazine Dive Magazine, splits the review into two types of regulators according to the use and experience of the diver. On the one hand, we have those regulators for recreational diving under no extreme conditions for divers who have a limited budget. On the other regulators for diving with different environmental conditions (especially in cold water) and for deep dives.  

 

At the end of this article you will see some advices when buying your diving regulator, some terminology applied to better understand which regulator to buy according to the use, as well as how each component of the regulator works. 

 

Regulators for all types of diving

We are not talking about cheap regulators, is more related to regulators that are going to be used in recreational diving or that are great as a first regulator purchase. We are talking about all-terrain regulators, super robust and not too expensive, adapted for beginner divers with limited budget.

 

Aqualung Core Supreme

from USD 500

Aqualung's most basic regulator, ideal for beginners, would be the Calypso, with its unbalanced piston design, very popular among diving centers for its strength, ease of maintenance and that can be found for just USD 250. But for divers who are looking to buy a regulator with a wider range of options we recommend the Aqualung Core Supreme. It has a balanced diaphragm first stage (at the end of this post you will understand what it means and its importance) with Aqualung's automatic closing device (ACD) that seals the regulator when it's removed from the tank, gaining in durability by preventing water or residues from entering. It has pre-angled ports to better connect the hoses. Both the first and the second stage are suitable for cold waters.

 

 

Aqualung core supreme Regulator

 

 

Atomic Aquatics Z2

desde USD 439

The 'Z' of this Atomic Aquatics Z2 refers to the Zirconium used on the bronze body of the first stage of the regulator, designed to provide greater resistance to corrosion. The first compensated stage features Atomic's "Jet Seat" technology, with two HP (High Pressure) and seven LP (Low Pressure) outputs, more than most regulators, with LP outputs located on a fixed lid instead of in the rotating body, which allows more options when installing the hoses.

 

advertising



 

The second stage is balanced and presents Atomic's patented automatic flow control for a much easier breathing. The titanium orifice for the seat in the second stage reduces valve wear, extending the life span and durability of this regulator to a minimum of 300 dives as long as you take care of it and keep it in good condition, of course.

 

scuba diving regulator Atomic Aquatics Z2

 

 


Mares Rover 15X

from USD 299 €

The Mares Rover scuba diving regulator comes in two formats with identical very compact second stages, but they differ in the first stage. The Rover 2S is the favorite rental regulator of many diving schools, with an unbalanced first stage combination that costs only around USD 120. The Rover 15X is somewhat more expensive, but with a balanced first stage that makes it suitable for a wider range of conditions and types of diving.

  

The pre-orientated 2 HP and 4 LP outputs provide some flexibility to the configurations of the hoses, while the patented technology of Mares helps these regulators have greater durability and better air flow control, with the mesh grid of the second stage also included.

 

Cold water kits can be purchased separately but remember that they have to be installed by a certified technician.

 


Mares Rover scuba diving regulator

 

 


Scubapro MK11 / C370

from USD 465

The Scubapro MK2 / R195 combo is probably the most widely used rental regulator set in the world, and with a retail price of just USD 199, a decent choice for entry-level divers on a tight budget. But we bring you the new MK11, along with the new multi-purpose C370 second stage that offers much more for the diver in terms of performance and is not much more expensive.

 

The balanced diaphragm design of the MK11 is suitable for cold water diving, with two of the four LP outputs of high-flux LP, providing 15% more air than the others. The second stage of the C370, with balanced diaphragm also, has been designed to be compact and light, but very resistant. Along with The MK11, with a weight of 490 g, and the C370 of only 171 g, this combination is one of the lightest available and is excellent for your diving trips.

 

Scuba Diving regulator Scubapro MK11

 

 


Seac P-Synchro

from USD 219

This regulator of the Italian company SEAC is designed for beginners and the intensive use of regulators in diving centers. It is sold as what it is: cheap, reliable, safe, robust and simple. Exactly what diving centers look for in their regulators.

 

The first stage, made in chromed brass, uses ultralight technopolymers and, unlike other equipment intended for rental, has a balanced membrane design. It is a basic but robust regulator. A decent option for very tight budgets but that falls short if we use it intensively and travel regularly.

 

Seac Sub P Synchro diving regulator

 

 
 

TUSA RS-1001

from USD 399

The latest addition of Tusa to its range of regulators, the R-1000 with balanced first stage, is a compact and lightweight diving regulator, suitable for cold water. Two of the four LP outputs are high flow, and provide 15% more air per breath. The unbalanced second stage S-0001 has a compact design with both left and right settings and a special design in the mouthpiece to reduce jaw fatigue.

 

 

Tusa RS-1001 diving regulator

 

 

  


Zeagle Envoy II

The Tec/Rec philosophy of Zeagle is very clear even in its Envoy II regulator for beginners. Redesigned in 2015, this balanced diaphragm regulator with brass body has five low pressure and two high pressure outputs. The high-performance transmission and precision engineering combined with the balanced second stage have given the Envoy II a reputation for providing excellent airflow and easy breathing.

 

Diving regulator Zeagle

 


 

Regulators for advanced divers and different environments

We have seen the most basic diving regulators and for limited budget, some of them not suitable for cold waters, and now we go with the review of other regulators suitable for advanced and very active recreational divers, who explore different environments (cold and warm waters ) as well as deep diving.

 

These regulators are usually manufactured with higher quality materials than those we have seen above, they are lighter and are designed with a higher degree of precision to maximize their performance. Many divers will not notice much difference beyond their weight, but those who have several hundred dives in their belts know that these small adjustments that raise the price also increase the performance underwater.

 

Apeks XL4

from USD 520

Launched in October 2017, the XL4 is Apeks' latest addition to its catalog. Suitable for all divers regardless of level, has a compact design and, by its own characteristics, also a compact price. The first stage is based on the DS4 and presents an overbalanced and sealed membrane for the coldest conditions. The one-piece body and flexible nylon hose reduce overall weight, while the second stage is aimed at reducing jaw fatigue during long-term dives.

 

Apeks XL 4 scuba diving regulator

 

 

advertising



Aqualung Legend LX Supreme

from USD 755

After more than 15 years providing air with their various reincarnations, the Legend have earned their reputation as a legend. The LX Supreme has an overbalanced first stage with environmental sealing for cold water diving and an extremely useful automatic closing device (ACD) that seals it when disconnected from the tank, protecting it from water and debris. The second stage pneumatically balanced comes with the 'Master Breathing System' (MBS), a new adjustment of ergonomic adjustment, which allows in a complete turn to adjust the injection and optimize the opening effort. The Aqualung LX Supreme is a extraordinary regulator designed specifically for cold water diving.

 

Regulator Aqualung Legend LX Supreme amazon

 

  


Mares Abyss 52X

from USD 699

The Mares Abyss 52x diving regulator features a fully metallic second stage, with most of the same characteristics of the Rover series, including the Vortex Assisted Design (VAD) that balances the second stage for easier breathing, regardless of depth.

 

The balanced first stage is designed for cold water dives, with Mares' NCC (Natural Convection Channel System) surface area that improves heat exchange, which makes its use perfect for cold water dives .

 

2 of the 4 LP outputs are dynamic flow control (DFC) ports, which reduce the intermediate pressure drop during the breathing cycle. The two regulators are connected with a lightweight 'superflex' hose as standard.

 

Scuba diving regulator Mares Abyss

 

 

  


Scubapro MK25 EVO / S620Ti

from USD 819

The first stage of the Scubapro MK25 regulator has been a favorite of recreational and technical divers for years, and the latest evolution is no exception. Although the balanced first stage is not environmentally sealed, Scubapro's patented thermal insulation system and antifreeze protection guarantee perfect performance even at the most extreme water temperatures.

 

It has five low and high flow outputs, mounted on a rotating turret, with two HP ports on each side. The S620Ti titanium is a recent update of the second stage of the S600, smaller and lighter but reinforced and with the membrane of the same size, which reduces the work of the respiratory rate by 37% compared to the S600.

 

Scubapro MK 25 diving regulator

 

 

  


 

Terminology and tips for buying a scuba diving regulator

Today, in the modern era of scuba diving, we can't say that there are bad diving regulators. Some may not be suitable for diving in extreme conditions such as cold waters and others may not directly like you, the brand does not give you confidence or they seem too heavy or expensive, but today all diving regulators are extremely reliable and are designed with very high standards.

 

Our life depends on diving regulators and we have the certainty that there is no regulator in the market that can't operate safely and effectively. Indeed, the regulators are not cheap, but there are some relatively cheap models available and with full guarantee as we have seen in the first block of this post.

 

There are many options available, and being one of the most complex elements of the diving equipment, the regulators come with an associated dictionary of technical terminology that we are going to try you to understand (yes, in our English). The lingo of diving regulator can be somewhat daunting, it's not explained to anyone in depth during the Open Water course and sometimes sellers use it to sell us equipment that we do not really need. Having basic knowledge of the components of a diving regulator before making a purchase is essential, especially if it is the first, so take a deep breath: here's the basics.

 

First stage

What is the first stage of a diving regulator? The first stage of a regulator is no more than the first connection between the diving tank and the regulator, hence its name. Its main objective is to reduce the pressure of the tank (over the 200-220 bar that we usually use in recreational, diving to 300 bar) at an average pressure of 8-11 bar above the ambient pressure.

 

DIN or INT?

The first stage is connected to the valve of the tank and converts the high pressure of the tank to an intermediate pressure to deliver the air to the second stage, where you breathe. In the INT (International) connection the regulators are adjusted to the valve of the tank and are secured with a screw clamp. DIN regulators (Deutsche Industrie Norm) are screwed into the tank valves with a threaded DIN opening.

 

DIN regulators are a little less bulky, form a more hermetic seal and can withstand higher pressures, which is why many divers consider it a superior system. DIN tanks have a removable adapter that allows them to be used with INT regulators, but DIN regulators require a separate adapter for use with INT tank valves that do not have a threaded opening.

 

DIN is fast becoming the standard in the diving industry, but it is not universal. In international diving trips the most common is to find bottles adapted for DIN and if yours is INT we advise you to buy a core for INT (some boats have few and may not be in its best state). Our recommendation, by size, safety and comfort is that you opt for DIN.

 

Environmental sealing
All regulators work perfectly in warm water, which is where most divers use their regulators, but compressed gases get colder as they expand (aerosol deodorizers are a perfect example) and can cause that the unprotected regulators freeze when diving in cold water (we consider cold water below 10° C). Environmental sealing prevents cold water and particles from entering the first stage, reducing the risk of freezing or damage. If you plan to dive regularly in cold water, environmental sealing is a must.

 

Unbalanced, balanced and over-balanced

Unbalanced regulators work by tank pressure, so resistance to breathing increases very slightly as pressure decreases. They are the simplest and cheapest regulator design. Yes, those you see for rent in the diving centers. Balanced regulators are not affected by the pressure of the tank and provides air at the same pressure during the entire dive, regardless of the water pressure. Today, all the most basic regulators are this type. Over-balanced regulators are those that slightly increase the air pressure delivered in depth. It is a feature that many divers consider very interesting but it is not essential so we would recommend that you check if it is a compensated regulator to give you greater ease and less effort to breathe.

 

¿Piston or diaphragm?

Piston scuba regulators operate using a hollow metal piston opposed by a metal spring. They can be compensated or decompensated but diving in cold water requires that they have an environmental seal or antifreeze technology. The membrane regulators have a more complex design and all are balanced, with the rubber membrane acting as their own environmental seal, so they are preferred for diving in deep and cold water.

 

In this Scubapro video, you'll see more clues about the differences between both technologies:

 

 

Ports or outputs

All regulators have at least one port (also known as outputs) of high pressure (HP) to the gauge and four ports of low/medium pressure for the second stage, jackets and inflators of dry suits. Higher-level regulators can have an additional HP port and additional LP/MP ports, allowing greater flexibility in configuration

 

Second stage

The second stage is the end of the hose, where you can find the mouthpiece through which you breathe. The second stage has as its main mission to reduce the intermediate gas pressure to the exact pressure you need to breathe comfortably, provide air and allow you to exhale easily.

 

Balanced or un balanced

The balanced second stages reduce the "rupture pressure" of the regulator, that minimum pressure required to work, which provides a small reduction in respiratory effort.

 
Dive/Predive/flow control

The Venturi effect, in which the moving gas causes a reduction in the surrounding pressure, is what makes the regulators work, and also causes them to flow freely, especially on the surface. Most regulators have a Venturi control, often called dive/predive or +/-, which prevents this. Some regulators also have an air flow control that affects the pressure of rupture.

 

Nitrox

All regulators can be used with recreational Nitrox up to a maximum of 40% Oxygen. Any higher mix requires the use of compatible materials and specialized oxygen cleaning.

 

Hoses

The standard rubber hoses are quite inflexible and prone to cracking if we store them improperly. In recent years braided, lighter and more flexible hoses have appeared, very popular because they are easier to transport, offer better options for configuration and reduce jaw fatigue. Swivel hose connectors offer similar advantages to standard rigid connectors. Some manufacturers are now offering braided hoses and swivel joints as standard, but they are always available as optional extras.

 

Tips when buying your scuba diving  regulator

The main consideration when buying your diving regulator is the type of environment in which you plan to dive. For typical recreational diving, in warm waters, any regulator will be worth it, but if you plan to do deep diving or in cold water the range is shortened, not all will serve you.

 

Size and weight can be important factors when making your purchase decision, like the price. We are lucky to be able to buy a lot of diving equipment online, inform us beforehand and decide between dozens of options without having to go to a store with few options and sellers who want to sell us :-)

 

The general advice would be to buy the best scuba regulator you can afford, when there is money the decisions are easier, right? For smaller budgets, the basic regulators we've seen are a good option, as long as you keep in mind your limitations. However, as in everything in the world of diving gear, spending a little more in the first place can save you a lot of money in the long term, mainly if you keep growing as a diver and start to add dives and diving trips.

 


Recommended to you

The top 4 diving
computers for beginners
What diving mask
do you recommend me?
What type of diving
wetsuit do i need?
scuba diving computers for beginners buy diving masks Diving wetsuits types

 


Every time you make a purchase through some links added to the text, we receive a commission thanks to affiliation agreements. Here you can read our commercial policy 




Los 10 mejores destinos de buceo en verano (parte II)



We continue with the second part of the article about the best diving destinations of the summer with another 5 world-class diving destinations. The first part of the article? Sure, sorry, throught this link you can find it.

 

6. Ribbon Reef, Great Barrier Reef (Australia)

The Great Barrier Reef of Australia is one of those destinations that are always in the mind of any diver but as is very remote for the most part of divers (and nothing cheap) we tend to delay the day we dive there. This coral system, vital for the health of the world's oceans, is undoubtedly one of the places with the greatest biodiversity and where spectacular pelagic species gather throughout the year. In the area of Cairns we find Ribbon Reef, the most virgin and lonely reef of the Great Barrier, where during summer we can find a very special visitor: the curious minke whales that during June and July can be spotted there in their annual migration. You can also dive with the famous giant potato potato groupers (Epinephelus tukula), sharks, sea turtles...         

 

 

Diving the Ribbon Reefs on Australia's Great Barrier Reef from Undersea Productions

 

We have already said that it is not a cheap trip, but not that expensive neither for less than € 1,600 you can have 5 days of diving in the Great Barrier Reef with 14 dives and liveaboards from just 1,100 €.

 

 

7. Guadalupe (Mexico)

If one of your dreams is to meet face to face with great white sharks, Guadalupe is your destination and summer your time of the year. Only from June to October you can take part in these special expeditions in the Mexican Pacific, focused on submerging yourself in a cage 15 meters deep and seeing different white sharks approach and play with your cage. An experience more than exciting only suitable for the true lovers of this beautiful predator.

 

GUADALUPE from Erick Higuera

 

The only way to dive with white sharks in Guadalupe is trought liveaboards from about 2,000 € per person and we recommend to book your spot with at least 5 months in advance.

 

 

8. Sipadan (Malasia)

Sipadan, an island of Malaysia located in the Sea of Celebes, is a place with the perfect mix of macro and pelagic diving where you can dive all year round but precisely during the months of July and August the conditions are much better. It is an easy diving area, very suitable for beginners, with perfect surface conditions, without waves or currents in the bottom and where you can find extraordinary visibility, up to 40 meters in many areas.

 

During the summer you will dive with lots of green and hawksbill turtles and you will find huge schools of horse mackerel and other carangids, barracudas, groups of impressive bumphead parrotfish, white tip sharks, tuna almost two meters long, humphead wrasse...

 

Sipadan '17 from Kenneth Tan

 

9. Sardine Run (South Africa)

The Sardine Run is a unique event in nature, one of the largest migrations on the planet that brings together some of the biggest predators on earth, from blue whales to dolphins, various species of sharks and seabirds, all of them ready to end with a gigantic ball of sardines. This show, perfectly visible from the air and that can be as big as 7 km long, 1.5 km wide and 30 meters deep, takes place from May to the end of June, when the little that remains of the school of sardines makes its way to the Indian Ocean.

 

It is a hard trip, suitable only for experts with several dives, which is done on dhingys chasing the school of sardines to where the cormorants, cetaceans and big fish mark the entry point. Yes, it is a hard trip, but few diving trips can gather that many huge predators.

 

 

10. Yucatán Peninsula (Mexico)

There are several reasons to dive in the Yucatan Peninsula during summer; first, it is low season so the accommodation is chepaer. In addition, from June to September is when hundreds of whale sharks arrive to Isla Mujeres and Holbox, with which you can snorkel. As if that were not enough, during summer is when loggerhead turtles arrive to spawn in Playa del Carmen and, finally, the lights of the Cenotes in summer are more intense, increasing the beauty of this unique diving in the whole world.

 

 


 

Other articles you might find interesting

Top 10
shark diving destinations
20 diving trips to make
before you die 
The best liveaboard
routes in Indonesia
Shark diving destinations scuba diving trips Liveaboard scuba diving in Indonesia

 

Best liveaboards reviews of:

Cocos Island
Socorro Island 
Northern Red Sea
Cocos Island Liveaboards Socorro Island Liveaboards Red Sea Liveaboards
Page 2 of 53